In this case, you might prioritise the fact that an untucked shirt looks more relaxed you might not place much importance on how physically flattering a shirt is or you might just prefer the style - and that’s always the most important.Īnother option, in order to look more relaxed still, is to wear a white vest or T-shirt underneath the shirt. Yes, it shortens the legs less obviously, it narrows the shoulders (relatively) it also looks less neat, more messy, and you could say less elegant.īut as with all the rules (which we’ve covered extensively here ) the point is to respect these traditions, understand the benefits that mean they’ve been passed down, and then decide whether you are about other things more. Let’s get the menswear rules out of the way first. Certainly, it helps this shirt look a little more relaxed.
I always, always fold back my shirt sleeves when I’m not wearing a jacket I feel physically weird if I don’t, and I do it in exactly the way I watched my Dad do it years ago.īut there is also a case to be made that it’s flattering. You can see the size of the collar in this iteration - but with that roll, in an outfit that is clearly a little more dressy and perhaps even evening-y, I think it works. Which is what I’ve shown in the second outfit iteration, above. I’d be more at ease wearing it on its own. Still, if I were ever to have another shirt like this made by Anto, I would take a centimetre off the length. Both make the length of the collar less obvious. However, its shape is nice under a jacket like this, curling around the lapel before tucking neatly underneath it.Īnd, when the jacket is removed, the light fusing takes on a little of that tucked-under shape, giving the collar a little roll and pointing it downwards. I have struggled with the size of that collar, which was bigger than I anticipated (9cm).
And it means the shirt adds a nice, subtle edge to the outfit, rather than being the focus: you might expect a white or ecru linen, but what you get is a slightly floppy-collar silk. It’s certainly the easiest way to wear it, as the unusual aspects of the shirt are partly hidden. The way of wearing the shirt above is how I would imagine most PS readers will prefer it: tucked in, with a jacket over the top. They will always drape better than linen or cotton, and even if they have to have a silkier look as a result, it doesn’t have to be the satin finish people most commonly associate with silk: it can be more matte, and more textured, as here or with the rayon covered previously. The latter, I’m increasingly realising, is a key reason silk or rayon are good for this style of shirt. But it is also densely woven, which means it holds its shape well - retaining a clean, smarter look when untucked. The shirt itself is made in an unusual ribbed silk, with an almost crepe-like texture. I’ve deliberately worn the shirt here in all those different permutations, to enable some discussion. But it’s also a good excuse to talk again about tucking and untucking, with a jacket and without, given that’s how the shirt was styled. The shirt is interesting to cover as a product, as a review. I took my own measurements and the result turned out well - perhaps helped by the fact that Jack and I had met in person previously. I then asked Jack to make me one in the same model. I thought Anto might have made the shirts for that film, and it turned out they had. I was rewatching the film and noted Ryan Gosling’s sports shirt in it - cream, what looked like silk, worn tucked and untucked, with trousers and with a suit.
It was the latter that sparked my interest recently. A large portion of his shirts are made for costume directors on films like Casino, Ocean’s Eleven or La La Land. Jack makes for many celebrities in Los Angeles, but also does a lot of film work. I first got to know Jack when he spoke at our Shirtmakers Symposium during Pitti, in 2018. In the continuing vein of exploring sports shirts - casual, vintage-styled, often rayon or silk - I chatted a couple of months ago to my friend Jack Sepetjian, who runs Anto shirts in LA.
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